Sides that freeze and thaw
Snowmelt soaks into brick by day and freezes at night, and in cold climates that's a major cause of frost damage. Even hairline cracks where mortar meets brick let more water in.
Crumbling or cracked mortar between your bricks? We clear out the worn joints and refill them so the wall takes in less water.

Brick pointing, which plenty of folks call tuckpointing, means raking the old, worn mortar out from between your bricks and packing the joints with fresh mortar, and at Custom Loveland Concrete and Masonry it's how we help Loveland homeowners cut down the water getting into their brick walls.
Most calls start with something you notice from the yard, like mortar you can rub out with a thumb or joints that look sunken next to the brick. I'll come out, look over the whole wall and ask you plenty of questions, because where the water's getting in matters as much as where the mortar's gone.
The price moves with how much wall needs work, how high it goes and whether we need scaffolding to reach it, how deep the joints are worn and whether any bricks need fixing before we point. The schedule turns on that same brick work and on the weather, since fresh mortar needs time above freezing to cure, and my written estimate lays out what the price covers.
My estimate writes down everything the price covers in one place, so you know which walls we're pointing, what brick work comes first and what we're leaving alone.
I'm the one who comes out to see your wall and write the estimate, and I'm on site with our masons while they work, so what we talked about is what gets done.
If your joints still have good years in them, I'll tell you it can wait. When the work does make sense, we do it carefully, and it's satisfaction guaranteed on every job.
Before we touch a joint, I check whether the trouble stops at the mortar or the bricks themselves are cracked, loose or flaking, because new mortar around a bad brick won't hold for long. Leaks and stair-step cracks get the same close look, since they point to brick that needs repair first and sometimes to a wall that's moved, which can make it a foundation repair job before it's a pointing job.
On soft old brick we take the mortar out by hand. It's slower than running a grinder down every joint, but it's much kinder to the brick edges, and those edges are what hold a clean, tight joint. Then we pack the joints with new mortar in layers, tool them to match the rest of the wall and clean the brick face as we go.
Expect some noise and dust while the old mortar comes out, and if the wall's tall, scaffolding may sit against that side of the house for a while. Chimneys get the hardest weather on the house, so when a stack's joints are going, we'll look at the crown and flashing too and talk you through chimney repair if it needs more than pointing.
Snowmelt soaks into brick by day and freezes at night, and in cold climates that's a major cause of frost damage. Even hairline cracks where mortar meets brick let more water in.
They catch weather from every side and are hard to see from the ground, so their joints often wear well past the rest of the house before anyone notices.
Low walls, planters and steps sit close to wet soil and sprinkler spray, so their joints tend to go first. They're also an easy place to catch trouble early.
If your house is a city landmark, the Historic Preservation Commission reviews and decides applications for a landmark alteration certificate. Tell us up front so we can plan the work around that review.
Send the form and we'll get back to you within one business day to set a visit. I'll come look at the wall myself, and the estimate is free with no obligation.
A few close shots and one of the whole wall help me see how deep the wear goes and whether any bricks look cracked before I come out.
Height tells me whether we'll need scaffolding, and size gives me a feel for the job, so both help me plan the visit and the estimate.
Tell us if you've seen water inside or stains on the brick, because a leak can mean the brick needs repair first and I'll want to look there.
These photos show joint profiles, mortar colors and brick types you can point to when we talk about how your wall should look.
Here's what people ask me most when they're looking at worn joints and trying to decide what their wall really needs.
Your joints need new mortar if you see crumbling mortar, gaps or voids, hairline cracks, cracks between the brick and the mortar, or mortar worn back more than ¼ inch from the brick face. Run a finger along a few joints to check. Cracked, loose or flaking bricks are a different fix, which is why I look at the brick first.
Repointing brick usually costs about $3 to $25 per square foot of wall across the US, and that's what the market charges, not our quote. Where your wall lands depends on the things I covered above, like height, scaffolding and how much brick repair comes first. Your written estimate gives you your own number.
The new mortar should be equal to or lower in strength than your wall's original mortar. Mortar that's harder than the original puts extra stress where brick meets mortar and can spall the brick face, popping off the front of the brick, and that damage can't be undone. So the right mix starts with what's in your wall now.
Mortar joints typically last more than 25 years, depending on how exposed the wall is and what it's built with, while the bricks may well last more than 100 years. So most brick walls need repointing at some point in their life, and it's normal upkeep, not a sign the wall was built badly.
That's not clear-cut for repointing, so we check with the City of Loveland's Building Division on every job. The city requires a building permit for new construction, additions and alterations, and when your job needs one, we handle the application and set up the inspections. We're licensed and fully insured, and you can confirm any contractor's city license by calling 970-962-2505.
Yes, the city lets you do your own work on the home that's your primary residence, with a homeowner affidavit. If your brick is old and soft, take it slow. The National Park Service says hand chisels carry the least risk of damage to historic brick, while power saws and grinders can be disastrous for it in unskilled hands.
Calling while the damage is still in the mortar usually keeps the job to pointing, before water works its way into the bricks themselves.